🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.