Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.